
It
was love at first sight. The friendly
people, the relaxed rhythm of day-to-day
life, astonishing nature, breathtaking
paddy fields and, most of all, the
smiles on everyone's faces. We immediately
felt at home.
Our life in Belgium, the last fifteen
years working for our own company
selling machinery for prefab industries,
was so easily forgotten while being
here, that we always dreamed of moving
here for good ever since.

What
bounded us to Bali even more were
the four childrens, we assisted to
get a better life. Three visited us
in Belgium and we travelled together
around to learn about life in Europe.
In the meantime some are living on
other islands of Indonesia and with
them. We have nearly no contacts anymore.
At this moment, we are helping our
five Balinese grandchildrens and the
children of friends we know already
for a long time.

Our
youngest daughter, Mudi, is the director
of Tamukami. When we are in Belgium,
she runs the business solely on her
own, and when we are in Sanur she
makes sure that we have little to
add to the daily management of our
hotel. When you visit us, you'll learn
to know her as a sincere and professional
person, who's main goal in life is
to please her guests.

You
indeed may say we are fortunate people,
having lovely Balinese children and
grandchildren one can be proud of,
and a dream hotel in one of the world's
most beautiful places.
We are looking forward to meet you
here at Tamukami !
Eugeen de Geest
Suzanne de Ridder
Hereunder a short story about :
SANUR : A History
Sanur, Bali's first beach resort,
is also Bali's largest traditional
village. It is a place of remarkable
contrasts: a golden mile of gorgeous
hotels that attract millions of paradise
seekers every years, and yet, within
the very grounds of the 11-storey
Grand Bali Beach, a war-reparation
gift from the Japanese, nestles the
sacred and special temple of Ratu
Ayu Singgi, the much feared spirit
consort of Sanur's fabled Black Barong.
Sanur - Intaran. Which describes greater
Sanur, from the sea to the rice fields
of Renon, is one of the few remaining
Brahman kuasa villages in Bali - controlled
by members of the priestly caste -
and boasts among its charms some of
the handsomest processions on the
island, Bali's only all female keris
dance, the island's oldest stone inscriptions
and the hotel world's most beautiful
tropical garden.
Even the souvenir sold on the beach
- beautifully-crafted kites and toy
outrigger - are a cut above those
found in other villages and districts
on the island on Bali. The black and
white checkered cloth standard of
Bali's netherworld is now here more
aptly hung than on the ancient coral
statues and shrines of Sanur's many
temples: the village was once famous
throughout Bali for its sorcery. In
the 1960s black and white magic pervaded
the coconut groves of the resort hotels
like an invisible chess game. - The
community is today modern and prosperous.
Just a stone's throw from any of Sanur's
beachside hotels lies one of a string
of very ancient temples of disjunctive
architecture.
Characterized by low coral-walled
enclosures and platform altars, this
style of temple is peculiar to the
white sand stretch of Sanur's coast,
from Sanur Harbor in the north to
Mertasari beach in the south. Inside
they are decorated with fanciful fans
of coral and roughhewn statuary, often
ghoulishly painted but always wrapped
in a checked poleng sarong. The rites
performed at the anniversary celebrations
of these temples are both weird and
wonderful - the celebrants often dancing
with effigies strapped to their hips,
while the priest are prone to wild
outbursts, launching themselves spread-eagled
onto a platform of offering and racing,
entranced, pell-mell into the sea.
The Sanur area, with traditional Intaran
at its heart, has been settled since
ancient times. The Prasasti Belanjong,
an inscribed pillar dated 913A.D..
is Bali's earliest dated artifact.
Now housed in a temple in Belanjong
Village in the south of Sanur, the
inscriptions tell of king Sri Kesari
Warmadewa of the Sailendra Dynasty
in Java, who came to Bali to teach
Mahayana Buddhism and then founded
a monastery here. One may presume
that a fairly civilized community
then existed - the Sailendra kings
having built Borobudur in central
Java at about this time.
The priests of Sanur-Intaran are also
mentioned in historical chronicles
dating from Bali's " Golden Age
", the 13th to the 16th centuries.
In the early 19th century, the king
of the Pemecutan court in Denpasar
saw fit to place satriya prince lings
outside the medieval core, establishing
a power base for princely (as opposed
to priestly) rule. Originally Sanur
consist of Brahman Griya (compounds)
in the Intaran area, with several
attendant communities - the Brahman
banjar of Anggarkasih, the fishing
village of Belong (which still hosts
a baris gede warrior dance at the
Pura Dalem Kedewatan temple, held
annually) and the village of Taman,
whose Brahmans have traditionally
served as the region's chief administrator
or perbekel. It was in the mid-19th
century that Sanur was first mentioned
by Europeans. Mad Lange, a Kuta-based
Danish trader wrote in his journals
of the special of the special relationship
that the perbekel of Sanur enjoyed
with his great friend the king of
Kesiman, Cokorde Sakti. In a less
flattering light, it was also a perbekel
of Sanur who turned a blind eye to
the landing of Dutch troops here in
1906, on their way to the massacre
of the royal house of Pemecutan -
one of the most ignoble episodes in
Dutch colonial history.
The story has been immortalized by
1930s Sanur habituee Vicki Baum in
her book, a Tale of Bali. The BBC
has produced a film about Sanur trance
medium "possessed" by the
spirit of a beer-swilling English
sea captain (possibly from one of
the merchant vessels which foundered
of Sanur's coral reefs) - to whose
semi divine memory a trance baris,
called Ratu Tuan, is perform by Semawang
Banjar. The costume: Chinese kung-fu
pyjamas of black and white checkered
cloth. The first half of the 20th
century marked Sanur's emergence as
prime real estate for the Bali-besotted:
beach bungalows, in what Miguel Covarrubias
revered to as "the swamps of
Sanur", were built by among others,
Dr. Jack Mershon and his anthropologist
wife Katharine (who choreographed,
with Walter Spies, the very checkered
kecak dance) writer Vicki Baum, anthropologist
Jane Belo (author of trance in Bali)
and art collector Neuhaus, who was
killed by a stray bullet during a
skirmish between local guerrillas
and Japanese occupation forces in
his home, site of the present-day
Hotel Sindu Beach. These early "Baliphiles"
hosted a steady stream of celebrity
visitors to the island during the
1930s, including Charlie Chaplin,
Barbara Hutton, Doris Duke, Sir Harold
Nicholson. It was probably more from
the travel report of these sophisticates
than from the movie with a sarong
draped Dorothy Lamour that Bali traces
its fame abroad. Not long after Indonesia
proclaimed Independence in 1945, Sanur
witnessed the beginning of an expatriate
building boom led by the Belgian painter
Le Mayeur, whose former studio home
on the beach is now a museum. Le Mayeur's
heavenly courtyard was the inspiration
for his breasty, nymph-filled paintings.
Australian artists Ian Fair-weather
and Donald Friend , whose marvelous
books and paintings have inspired
a generation of Australians, also
chose picturesque Sanur for their
Bali retreats.
Donald Friend lived here in imperial
splendor with an in-house gamelan
and Bali's finest art collection within
the grounds of the dream compound
he founded with Sanur entrepreneur
Wija Wawo Runtu - Batujimbar Estate
- now Bali's premier real estate property.
At about the same time, two Sanur
brahmana were leaving their marks
community. The first, high priest
Pedanda Gede Sidemen, was entering
the twilight of a prolific career
which spanned 70 years as south Bali's
most significant temple architect,
healer and classical scholar. His
life, and the pride he brought to
his native Sanur, were to inspire
a generation of Sanur brahmana who
may other wise have contemplated abandoning
their Vedic scriptures for a life
on the juice blender. The second,
Ida Bagus Berata - a nephew of Pedanda
Sidemen - insisted during his tenure
as mayor of Sanur from 1968 to 1986
that the area should be economically
as well as culturally autonomous.
To that end, Ratu Perbekel, as he
was affectionately know, established
a village-run cooperative that to
this day operates a beach market,
a restaurant, a car-wash and a service
station, and owns land in Kuta and
Denpasar.
This strident new economic approach
provided a friendly environment for
the establishment of many other Sanur-based
tourist businesses The 70s and 80s
saw the emergence of numerous landmarks
- The Tanjung Sari Hotel, the surfing
waves off Tanjung reef and Sanur reef.
The Bali Hyatt gardens - and the "settling-in"
of a new and more affluent generation
of the romantically Bali-besotted.
The Sanur of the 90s still a calm
and refined cultural backwater: yesterday's
taxi driver are today's hoteliers,
the ceremonies and festivals are bigger
and brassier than ever before, and
the Sanur people are as gracious and
charming as the place in which they
live. Enjoy your stay !!!
Written by Made Wijaya, Condensed
from Bali-Island of the Gods,
Permission of Periplus Editions.
MUSEUM LE MAYEUR
Hereunder you will find an
extract of the newspaper "THE
JAKARTA POST" from May 17, 2001.
LE MAYEUR MUSEUM A FITTING HOMAGE
TO BELGIAN - BORN MASTER.
SANUR, Bali (JP) : The famous Le Mayeur
Museum, locatedin the Sanur Beach
resort area of Bali, everyday displays
to the public paintings by world-famous
painter Jean Le Mayeur de Merpres,
as well as personal effects that he
left behind.
Born into Franch nobility in Bruxelles
on Feb.9, 1880, Le Mayeur was, in
his time, one of the wordl's famous
painters who eloquently reflected
the exoticism of Bali island, also
known as Paradise on Earth, and its
pretty girls on canvas.
Le Mayeur skillfully and artistitically
recorded chatting or dancing Balinese
girls, generaly bare-chested, without
giving the impression of vulgarity.
In five exhibition halls the museum
displays 88 pantings by Le Mayeur,
22 of which are on gunny sacks while
the rest are on canvas, cardboard,
plywood and paper.
Le Mayeur used gunny sacks for his
paintings when Indonesia was occupied
by Japan and canvas was too difficult
to find. He seemed to be able to make
do with whatever came his way. It
was on gunny sack that, during these
difficult times, he poured forth his
fiery passion for painting.
As a romantic person, Le Mayeur fell
deeply in love with Bali, also dubbed
the Isle of Deities. He first got
acquainted with this island through
the films he saw while still in Europe.
In 1932 he disembarked at Bali's port
of Singaraja in north Bali. From Singaraja
he went straight to Denoasar, where
he rented a house at Banjar Kelandis.
Actually, he planned to stay in Bali
for only eight months. His infatuation
whith the natural beauty of Bali and,
especially, with Ni Pollok, a beautiful
local dancer who became his model,
however, made him decide to settle
on this island.
So in 1935, Le Mayeur, who had seen
many a beautiful place the world over,
married Ni Pollok . After the marriage,
she purchased a plot of land measuring
3,200 square meters somewhere in the
Sanur Beach area. It was here thet
he wanted to build his house. Le Mayeur,
also a technical school graduate,
designed the house by himself and
opted for the traditional Balinese
architectural styte.
In constructing the house, Le Mayeur
was assisted by the famous sculptor,
Ida Bagus Made Mas. Progress was made
little by little and it was not until
20 years had elapsed since he purchased
the land was construction of the house
completed. The building, dominated
by teak wood, is resplendent with
highly graceful and beautiful Balinese
engravings.
The hard teak wood in the entire house
- windows, doors cupboards, tables
or chairs has all been engraved, which
is a very difficult job indeed. It
took six months, for example, to engrave
the octagonal table en eight very
simple chairs.
Yet, Le Mayeur, who had a host a dreams
for the house that he would occupy
with his beloved Ni Pollok, was not
in the least deterred by difficulty.
It was he him self who arranged the
positioning of the statues within
and without the house. It was also
he who arranged the trees, the flowers
and the entirely traditional Balinese
interior.
The house also has a small pond covered
with lotuses, flower sacred to Hindu
believers.
Thanks to this house, Le Mayeur became
very close with the community in Sanur.
Locals used to call him
" Mr. Mayor ", " mayor
" being the local pronunciation
of the French sound " Belgi "
being the local reference to Belgium.
Even today many of the locals call
Le Mayeur Museum as the Museum of
" Mr. Belgi ".
In 1967, Bahder Djohan, then minister
of education, teaching and culture,
visited Le Mayeur's house. He not
only admired the paintings but expressed
deep concern about how the paintings
would fare in the future, especially
considering that Le Mayeur and Ni
Pollok were childless.
The minister suggested that the house
be turned into a museum displaying
Le Mayeur's paintings. Le Mayeur agreed
and was even resolved to work harder
to ensure that the house would really
qualify as an art museum.
This artis died of an illnes in May
1958. Ni Pollok died on July 21, 1958.
Today, their house and its contents
- paintings, equipment and furniture
are under the local administration's
management. It is open every day except
Saturday.
When you visit this museum, you will
not only savor Le Mayeur's excellent
paintings, but also the engraved house,
its interior decoration, its furniture
( tables, cupboards, chairs ) and
a Le Mayeur - Ni Pollok gamelan set.
Then you may find it interesting to
look at a delightfully-shaped pond
sees peaceful proleferation of fish
and lotuses, and is home to a bust
of Le Mayeur made by I Made Pantri.
Ni Pollok had this bust made after
the death of her husband. She loved
her him deeply and would gaze at the
bust when she was overwhelmed by longing
for her dead husband. She would give
offerings - flowers and food - to
the bust twice a day.
On the lower part of the bust Pollok
inscribed: in loving memory of AJ
Le Mayeur De Merpres. Born on February
9, 1880, in Bruxelles ( Belgium ).
Arrived in Bali 1932. Died in peace
on March 31, 1958, in Bruxelles (
Belgium ).
It is really a shame that his paintings,
as the most precious legacy of Le
Mayeur, are mostly in a miserable
condition. The colors in many of the
paintings have faded. The coastel
air of Sanur, unfortunately, seems
unfavorable to Le Mayeur's most important
legancy.